Best of the Barking Butler

Posted on March 19, 2020May 7, 2021Categories Assistance Dog Skills, Great Tricks, Training Methods, Uncategorized, VideosTags , , , , , , , , ,

Have you ever wished your dog could pass your husband that wrench? Or that you could send your dog to the garden with a note for mother? One of the best tricks you can teach your barking butler is to deliver objects to targets. In this article, we will go through the 3 simple steps it takes to teach your dog to deliver an object to another person.

Roscoe learns to deliver an object between 2 people

Teach ‘take it to mom/dad’

Pre-requisite training: Retrieving is required, knowing names is helpful too.

Step 1: Stand 8 ft apart from your partner. The sender has the dog retrieve an easy item like a glove by handing it to them or tossing it on the ground. The sender cues ‘get it,’ but as the dog comes to deliver it, the sender points and says ‘take it to (name).’

Step 2: Now the sender must be quiet and let the receiver do the talking. Sender stands still and stares at the receiver while they ask the dog to ‘bring it here.’ The sender cannot offer any further encouragement, nor should they cue the dog again. This is key. If the sender keeps talking, the dog won’t stop looking at them and go off to the receiver.

Step 3: Fade the hint by waiting 2 full seconds after the sender says “take it to-” before helping. Your dog will already be on their way over most of the time, and will require less and less encouragement from the receiver.

Simple as 1-2-3! Now you can try new objects and locations. Increase distance until the dog can deliver to someone in another room without the receiver helping at all.

Troubleshooting

Near the end of the video I left some demonstrations of how to handle setbacks, such as the dog dropping the item either halfway there or just as they deliver it. At one point Roscoe simply trots off without ever getting the item.

The person who is to receive the delivery is the person who needs to encourage the retrieve. The sender must always remain silent after giving the ‘take it to’ cue.

If the dog drops the item, ask them to retrieve it again rather than picking it up yourself.

If the ‘get it’ is a complete fail to begin with (as in the case that they march off with nothing), then the sender will have to call the dog back to start over, but once the dog has the item, the sender must stay silent.

Enjoy your dog’s new skill!

Move over, Lassie, here comes my dog, and he’s got a message for you and my mom! (that he’s the bestest boy there is).

Peek-a-boo!

Posted on September 27, 2016Categories Dogs, Great Tricks, Please Share, VideosTags , , , ,

Peek-a-boo is such a cute dog trick! Your dog learns to pop up between your legs, which is a fun game some dogs discover on their own (typically, while in attendance at formal parties.) I’ve taught my dogs to ‘peek-a-boo-you’ so that  I can send them to goose someone else (while in attendance at informal parties, mostly.) Though, this trick can be classy; adding ‘chorus line kicks,’ so that your dog walks dramatically along with you will delight any dog dancing enthusiast. You can teach your dog to ‘peek-a-boo’ too, in just a 3 easy steps!

Teach ‘Peek-a-boo!’

  1. Cue ‘peek-a-boo’ by putting your hands on your hips, and popping both knees out.

  2. Lure your dog into position

  3. Say ‘yes!’ and reward

It’s smart to practice luring your dog through a few times before you add the cue. Begin with treats in both hands, holding one behind you so that your dog can see the teat between your legs. Once your dog is through and behind you, reach through your legs with your other hand from the front so that you can lure them forward and into position. Say ‘yes!’ when your dog is right between your legs, and reward. As you get better at luring, and your dog gets the hang of it, you’ll find that you can lure them easily with just one hand.

Don’t forget to release! I always release my dog from the peek-a-boo position with ‘okay’ so that I can have them hold that position as long as I want and perform the advanced peek-a-boo tricks.

Stimulus Control, for Safety’s Sake!

Getting this trick under stimulus control means that your dog won’t perform the trick absent of the cue. While you could choose almost any combination of verbal or hand signals you’d like as your cue, I recommend that bending your knees always be part of your ‘peek-a-boo’ cue. Don’t reward your dog’s peek-a-boo unless you bent your knees and asked for it. This will prevent your dog from trying to peek-a-boo people who may be knocked over, justifiably surprised by a large dog suddenly appearing in their crotch.

Bonus Tricks

The peek-a-boo walk: Feed your dog as you take steps forward, then start feeding after a step or two, then after 3 or 4 steps, increasing the time spent walking in the peek-a-boo position gradually. Always release your dog.

Chorus line kicks: Ask your dog to ‘shake-a-paw’ or ‘wave’ a few times before your next ‘peek-a-boo.’ Now, cue your dog to ‘shake-a-paw’ from the ‘peek-a-boo’ position. You may need to lean forward at first, but you’ll eventually fade your hand signal to just a quick flash of fingers at your hip. Kick out your right leg and cue your dog to shake/wave with your right hand. I like to use ‘right’ and ‘left’ because it is easy way to teach the meaning of those words while my dog is facing the same direction as me. Now, kick your left leg out and cue your ‘left’ shake. It still looks rough in the video, but soon this trick will look like my dog is high kicking along with me as I walk!

Add another dog: Once you have your first dog in position, pop your knees out again and ask your second dog to ‘peek-a-boo’ too! So cute!

Play ‘peek-a-boo you!’: This is a fun version of the ‘go to’ game that you can play with a friend or family member. Begin with just two people, standing just a few feet apart, facing one another. Cue your dog to ‘peek-a-boo you,’ (or name names), and point. Now, stand completely still and silent, and let your partner cue your dog to ‘peek-a-boo.’ Both people should have treats, luring if necessary. Ensure the dog is successful 90% of the time before increasing distance or adding more people.

Peek-a-boo makes a fun frisbee trick too! I like to let Doug grab the frisbee as he comes through, and I’ll reward him with a game of tug and another chance to catch the frisbee.

You may find that your dog is nervous to go through your legs at first. Let them eat as they go, and reward them with genuine enthusiasm. Soon, they will learn to love this trick, and their confidence in themselves, and trust in you, will have increased. If you’ve ever wanted your dog to stare up at you, wondering what fun thing you’ll do together next, then this trick is for you! Give it a try and have fun with your dog!

 

Dog Training Secrets Of The Stars

Posted on September 12, 2016November 23, 2020Categories Dogs, Featured, Great Tricks, Videos

If your dog is ever going to be a star, they’ll need to learn how to hit their mark, and perform! Your dog may know a few cool tricks, but can they get up on stage, or stand up in front of a camera, without you by their side?

One of the most difficult skills your dog will ever learn is how to work at a distance. Dogs generally respond well when they are within a few feet of their handler, but the rate of response declines substantially as the distance between dog and handler increases.

Because we are so fond of letting our dogs off-leash and then barking commands at them from 100 yards away, we ought to teach them to understand our cues from a distance.

Teach Cues at a Distance

We will begin by teaching your dog to respond to cues on a pedestal, so that they can easily learn to stay put, then we will challenge them by having them perform at a ‘mark.’

Step 1) Pedestal Training

Have your dog jump on a picnic table, stump, or bed. You may choose to purchase or make a low table or pedestal for your dog. Alternatively, set them up at the edge of a landing, staircase, curb, or mat, so long as the edge is obvious to your dog. Your dog will have an easier time performing from a distance if they are taught to remain in a well defined area.

You’ll notice that pedestal training is awesome for teaching dogs to hold positions for long periods without trying to move or creep forward. I recommend you try this same method if your dog is struggling to learn how to stay put while you back away. It also helps to tie them to a tree or something and work at the end of it, so that they are restrained from moving toward you.

SIT

Ask your dog to ‘wait,’ and step just a foot or two away. Now give your ‘sit’ cue. If they look puzzled or try to move forward, go to them and help by reminding them with your more familiar, nearby ‘sit’ cue. They will learn to anticipate your ‘sit’ cue, which always seems to come right after this strange new ‘sit’ cue that you give at a distance.

STAND

Use pedestal training when teaching dogs to ‘stand.’ Dogs tend to take steps forward as they stand, unless you begin teaching them in a spot where they can’t, at least not without falling off the edge of something and noticing their mistake! Keep working at a defined edge until the pattern of movement is set in your dog’s muscle memory.

Teach your dog to ‘stand’ on command: Draw your lure straight out from their nose while they are seated. As they stand up to follow the treat, say ‘yes!’ and quickly push your lure back into their mouth to keep them from taking a step forward. Release your dog to the side so your dog never takes steps forward after the ‘stand’ cue. Continue training on a pedestal for weeks, perhaps months, so that your dog can commit the pattern of movement to their muscle memory.

‘Stand’ at a distance is the toughest. If your dog stands without taking steps forward, mark with ‘yes!’ and reward them. Always deliver treats to the spot where your dog performs the cue so that they are motivated to stay put. If they take steps forward, ask them to back up if they know that cue, it seems to clue them in to their mistake. Alternatively, you can try returning them to the correct spot, and repeating the exercise. Give the cue from just a foot away, swiftly pushing food into their mouth as they get up to prevent forward movement.

My ‘stand’ hand signal is a palm facing the dog with my elbow at 90 degrees. My ‘back’ hand signal is that same signal–but with sight movement motioning them back. It is helpful to have your stand/back hand signals appear similar and to use them together. Your dog should only ever expect to step backward or sideways from a ‘stand’ cue. If you want to release by having the dog move forward or jump from the pedestal, I suggest doing one more cue first, like a sit or a down, before releasing forward.

DOWN

If ‘sit’ to ‘stand’ is going well, try ‘down’ from a distance. If your dog has always sat before lying down, you may need to remind them to go down elbows first, so go over and give them help if needed. They may also try to creep forward, so be sure to return them to the correct spot before repeating an easier version of the exercise.

If ‘stand’ to ‘down’ is going well, try ‘sit’ from a ‘down’ at a distance. Your dog may want to creep forward to ‘sit’ from a ‘stand’ and may struggle to ‘sit’ from a ‘down.’ In both cases, move closer to them and offer help. When you add a new cue, and any time your dog struggles to follow a cue, such as when given in a new context, remember to always follow proper command structure.

  • Give the cue

  • Wait 2 seconds

  • Offer your dog help to succeed if needed

  • Say ‘Yes!’ and reward

Step #2) Responding to Cues at a ‘Mark’

Pre-requisite training: ‘Mark’ + any cues you’d like to teach from a distance such as: ‘sit, down, stand, spin, speak, wave, bang, roll-over,’ etc.

Begin after a quick session of working on a pedestal, so that the muscles are primed to perform without creeping forward. I like to teach dogs to target post-it notes. I place them anywhere I’d like the dog to go, making them the ideal mark. If you’d ever like to go to the next level with your obedience, and especially if you’d like to have your dog act in movies or on TV, then this advanced training tip is for you.

Cue your dog to ‘sit’ the next time they touch their ‘mark.’ If they try to come toward you, remind them to go to their mark, and toss a treat when they do. Repeat, and try to encourage your dog if you see them thinking about the mark and the cue to ‘sit.’ Your dog may look back and forth between your ‘sit’ hand signal and the mark. They are figuring it out. You can see my dog Doug trying to understand the concept of responding to cues at a mark in the video.

Once your dog is happily performing his favourite cues at his mark, you can increase your distance from it. Begin by standing within 2 feet of the mark, and increase the distance gradually. Always return to the mark to place treat on it, or deliver it directly to your dog so that they are motivated to stay there. You’ll need to treat cues at a mark like any other new trick, and give them more reinforcement at first.

Now your dog is almost ready to begin a career as a canine actor! But don’t get wrapped up in the possibilities of fame and fortune, you’ve already won the big prize: a stronger bond with your best friend. I hope you have fun taking your dog’s obedience to the next level with these advanced exercises, I know your dog will enjoy it!

Touch

Posted on September 7, 2016December 4, 2020Categories Dogs, Great Tricks, VideosTags , ,

Teach your pup to target your fingers. This alternate recall is fantastic, and not just because you can literally point your fingers and your dog will be there. ‘Touch’ is also an easy first step to these cool tricks:

  • Opening and closing doors
  • Closing cabinets and drawers
  • Ringing a bell or pushing a button
  • Turning on/off lights
  • Hearing dog skills such as: alerting to a baby’s cry or a dropped object.
  • Sending the dog to family members by name: ‘go find mom!’
  • Learning vocabulary words; know your ‘ball’ from your ‘frisbee’
  • Send-aways, or going to a ‘mark’ for canine actors

Teach ‘Touch’

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‘Touch’ hand signal

Begin by drawing two meaty smelling fingertips from your dog’s nose outward, by about a foot and a half. Now, hold your hand still. If your pup doesn’t come to your fingertips to check if a treat might be there, try starting again right at their nose and moving slowly, then holding your fingers still about 18 inches from their nose. It helps if your pup is already moving when you begin, so get them up off the couch! You can hold a treat between your two fingers at first, but advance quickly to just rubbing the smell of treat on your fingertips, with the actual reward coming from your other hand. Now, your dog can learn that the hand signal predicts the treat, not simply that the treat predicts the treat.

  • When your pup’s nose touches your fingers, say ‘Yes!’
  • Reward ASA
  • Once your pup is getting the idea, add the cue ‘Touch’

As with anything you’ll teach your pup, less is more, try practicing ‘touch’ for just a minute or two per day. Perhaps a dozen touches peppered throughout the day. Make it fun!  Kids love to call this trick ‘touch the button!’ Have them searching for your fingers high and low, soon they’ll be willing to jump high to touch them! Practice in the yard and at the park, use it to teach them to jump over your leg or climb up and off of benches and barriers.

While there are tons of cool tricks and assistance dog skills just around the corner, the basic ‘touch’ is hugely useful on its own. I urge you to use alternate recalls like ‘touch’ to move and position your dog. Most people use their recall cue ‘come’ all day long, when they simply want the dog to move closer to them, or walk along with them, or to come over to do the next exercise, or whatever. Casually using your recall cue dilutes the meaning and importance of your recall cue. Save ‘come’ for recall exercises so that your dog will come running when it counts. Then, when you’d like your dog to move closer, or a little to the left, or whatever, use your target cue ‘touch.’

Advanced Touching

There are so many applications for your dog’s new targeting skill, in fact, I just decided to teach Doug to recognize himself in a mirror! Well… he may not have had the existential epiphany I had hoped for, but he does ‘touch’ his own image in a mirror when I cue ‘touch Doug.’ He already knows how to ‘touch mom’ and ‘touch Roscoe,’ so I figured it would be cute to teach him how to point himself out in a mirror. I’ve never seen another dog do that, and I’d love to share with you how easy it is to teach your dog cool tricks like this!

‘Touch’ a post-it note: ‘Mark’

The first time you present the post-it note is key. Your dog will be curious the first time you show them the brightly coloured square, and if they are already standing or moving, they are likely to come and investigate the post-it note. Whip it out and move it past their nose, holding it still about 18 inches away. With any luck, your dog will come to check it out. Say “yes!” as their nose touches the post-it, reward with a treat and repeat just a few times. Name this cue ‘mark,’ or whatever you’d like, it’s your dog! This should be a fun game, quick, easy, and rewarding. Within just a few days, your dog will love touching the mark, and you can hold the post it note up high, down low, have them chase it all over the house, even jumping up to touch it.

In order to use your post-it mark from a distance, you’ll need to remove the context of your hand holding it. Most dogs will have no trouble targeting it on the ground, or on a wall or cabinet door. Say ‘yes!’ if they so much as look at it, and hold your hand behind it for a rep or two more if needed. If the post-it is on the ground, place your reward directly on top of the post-it, you can toss treats at it once you are working from a distance. The treat will bounce away from the mark if they don’t catch it, and then you can cue them to return to the mark, which is great practice.

Now that your dog knows how to touch your fingers and post-it notes, you can get them to touch anything, and then name it! Pretty soon, your dog will know your name, your other dog’s name, where the door is, what the heck you’re looking for when you’ve lost the ‘keys,’ and any other useful vocabulary you can think of. The sky is the limit, in fact, the world record canine vocabulary is well in excess of 1000 words! These simple exercises barely scratch the surface of what is possible with nose targeting.

Jump Over My Leg

Posted on June 24, 2016Categories Dogs, Great Tricks, Please Share, VideosTags , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Got a leg? Then teach your dog to jump over it! This trick is easy, fun, and will burn energy almost anywhere.

Teach your dog to jump over your leg

Jumping over and over isn’t for puppies, wait until your dog is at least 1.5 years old, 2 for giant breeds before teaching this trick.

Begin with your foot against a wall, fence, or tree. Save your hamstring the trouble and keep your foot low, it will help your dog learn to go over, not under your leg. Lure your dog over your outstretched leg with a treat. Say ‘yes!’ and reward your dog with a tasty treat, be especially enthusiastic if they jump high.

Once your dog is happily jumping over, add the cue ‘hup’ or ‘jump,’ and begin gradually raising your leg up. You’ll need to ask your dog to ‘sit’ or ‘wait’ a few feet away so that they can take a run at it.

Do dozens of reps over at least a week’s time before slowly, gradually moving away from the wall, fence, or tree. You will know you’ve gone too far, too fast when your dog cheats and circles your leg instead of jumping over. Smart boy! He knows an easier route! Don’t laugh, you’ll only reinforce his cheating ways, just go back a little closer to the wall and do a few more reps. Your dog needs plenty of practice to set the pattern and learn the cue.

We think your dog will love this trick! Have fun!

Hoop Jump

Posted on June 22, 2016Categories Dogs, Great Tricks, Please Share, VideosTags , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Teach your dog to jump through a hula hoop! You probably have one lying around, and if not, they aren’t hard to come by, which makes this trick an easy bet for summer fun!

What you’ll need: A hula hoop large enough for your dog to jump through, treats, and an adult dog. You can find hula hoops at toy stores and dollar stores. Make sure that the hoop isn’t designed to make noise,  drain any noisemaking beads if necessary so that your dog isn’t startled by the hoop. Jumping over and over isn’t for puppies, wait until your dog is at least 1.5 years old, 2 for giant breeds.

Step 1: Hold the hoop on the ground and lure your dog through with a treat. Say ‘yes!’ and feed them as they go through the hoop.

Step 2: Hold the treat on the other side of the hoop and ask you dog to make the first move. Say ‘yes!’ and feed them once they have made it through the hoop.

Step 3: Hold the hoop an inch or two off the ground, and repeat step 2 a few times, gradually raising the hoop.

Step 4: Once your dog is jumping through with ease, add your cue to ‘hup’ or ‘jump’ or ‘hoop’ to name their new trick!

Step 5: Have your dog ‘sit’ or ‘wait’ and step a few feet away, hold out your hoop give your cue to ‘hup!’ Stare at the hoop, not your dog, and show them the treat on the other side if they struggle.

Bonus Step 6: The double hoop jump trick! Add another hoop, and teach your dog to follow your eye by looking toward the hoop you’d like them to jump through. They will learn to jump around you in a continuous loop!

Bonus Hula Hoop tricks: You can also use your new hoop jump trick to teach your dog to jump over your back, your leg, through your arms, and much more!

Ring of fire: Cover your hula hoop in tissue paper and cut a hole big enough that your dog will still jump through it. Repeat the process with increasingly smaller openings until you have a dog that will jump through the covered hoop, with just a small hole at the centre! Draw some cool flames on it, or maybe your dog’s name, and let him jump through it to begin your show, even if it’s just for grandma and her friends at the nursing home. Your dog will delight and amaze!

We think you and your dog will love this trick!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Teach your dog to do ‘laundry’

Posted on June 13, 2016Categories Assistance Dog Skills, Dogs, Great Tricks, Kids and Pets, Please Share, Videos

This article will describe how simple it is to teach your dog to put laundry into a basket, or toys in a box, or trash in a can. If your dog already loves to retrieve, you could teach this trick to your dog within a week, training for just a few minutes a day!

When we teach dogs to retrieve, we begin with soft, easy items like socks, and advance to leather, wood, plastic, and finally metal items. Helping with the laundry is a fun rainy day game that is well suited to novice dogs and their handlers.

Teach your dog to do ‘laundry’

Step 1) Begin by tossing balled socks as though they were toys. After a couple successful retrieves, try again with a basket right in front of you. Use your cue to ‘drop it’ or simply offer them a treat at the right moment to get them to drop the sock into the basket. If the sock lands in the basket, mark with ‘yes!’ and give them a treat. If the sock lands outside the basket, ask them to retrieve it again.

Step 2) Try placing multiple items out to retrieve, beginning with small pieces of clothing like socks and underwear. Your dog might try to retrieve the first item out of the basket. Try to catch their nose with a treat so that they drop the first item again, and then lead them by the nose directly to the next item. Some dogs can be very determined that they should keep retrieving the first item out of the basket, it is adorable, so don’t get frustrated.

Step 3) Give your cue to do ‘laundry’ a few feet away from the basket, stepping toward it if they try to retrieve the item directly to you.

Not only is this trick easy, once you teach them to do retrieve to a target, you have already taught them the basic behaviour chain behind so many other cool tricks like putting trash in can, playing basketball, and putting toys in a box. Your kids will love teaching your dog to clean up their room, and you will be shocked by how soon you’ll have your own barking butler!

 

Leap Dog!

Posted on June 5, 2016March 1, 2020Categories Dogs, Great Tricks, Please Share, Videos

Got 2 dogs? Teach them this fun trick!

When you have 2 dogs, they tend to get really good at obedience, learning to lie ‘down’ patiently while the other dog is trained, and they get really good at listening for their name, so that they know when it is finally their turn! Sometimes though, it is nice to teach a trick that the two of them can do together.

Because this trick involves one dog jumping over another, you’ll need to assess your dogs’ suitability in either role. Some pairs of dogs won’t be safe attempting this trick, such as Great Dane Danny and his little sister, Chloe the Chihuahua. My dogs are well suited because I have a sturdy, tough mastiff to hold steady on the bottom while my lighter, agile, athletic boxer floats effortlessly over his back.

Teach Your Dogs to ‘Leap Dog!’

Prerequisite training cues for jumper: ‘jump’

Prerequisite training cues for bottom dog: ‘down,’ and ‘stand’

You’ll need to teach at least one dog to jump on cue over something like a log, or a broom set between 2 chairs (or stacks of books for small dogs). Begin with low, easy jumps, marking with ‘yes!’ or a clicker, and rewarding any jump that clears the bar with extra enthusiasm. It is important that your jumper gets good at jumping high into the air before you advance to jumping over a dog.

Optional: Place your bottom dog under your bar jump in a ‘down’ for a few reps to give them the right idea.

Step 1) Bottom dog eats during the jump

Your bottom dog will hold a ‘down’ position while your jumper leaps over their back. In your regular obedience training, your dog will likely lie down with legs outstretched to the side so that they are comfortable staying for long periods. For ‘leap dog’ purposes, a prone or sphinx style  ‘down’ position is preferred, with the legs tucked under the body, so that your jumper will not accidentally land on a foot, tail, or an exposed private part. If your dog always seems to leave it all hanging out, so to speak, try doing a few quick puppy push-ups: ‘sit, stand, down, sit, stand, down, sit, down,’ encouraging your dog to respond to the next cue the very moment they complete the last. Your dog will stop flopping over and instead crouch ‘down’ like a sphinx, poised and ready to ‘stand.’ While your dog is crouched ‘down’ perfectly, feed them a treat to keep them still while you cue your other dog to ‘jump’ over their back.

Letting your bottom dog eat during the jump will ensure that they don’t pop up at the wrong moment should they be startled by the flying dog overhead. They will also learn to love this new ‘dinner and a show’ trick you’ve come up with. You can begin using the ‘leap dog!’ cue once they have the hang of it, but continue using your ‘jump’ hand signal. I use a flick of the wrist, but feel free to make up your own hand signal. Signals that gesture in the direction of the movement you expect are best.

Step 2) Bottom dog eats after the jump

Now you’ll begin rewarding your bottom dog after the jump. You will stand up straight and encourage your bottom dog to hold a ‘down’ position, placing a handful of treats between their paws for the first few reps so that they keep busy eating while you cue your jumper to ‘leap dog!’ Saying ‘yes!’ as they jump, and dropping more treats between the bottom dog’s paws afterward.

When it comes to reinforcing these behaviours, make sure to reward your bottom dog plenty! Their job may not be as glamorous, but it is important that they learn to love holding still while the other dog has all the fun jumping. You can begin fading treats with your jumper almost immediately, because jumping itself is so fun, and you’ll want to mark and reward only the highest jumps.

Step 3) Bottom dog stands

Have your bottom dog ‘stand,’ and feed them while you cue your jumper to ‘leap dog!’ Feed your bottom dog during the jump at first so that they continue loving this trick, even if they get a toe nail in the back a few times during the learning phase.

Bonus Step 4) Give your cue from a distance

Cue your bottom dog to stand and step back a step a foot or two before cueing ‘leap dog!’ Step forward immediately to reward or to remind them what to do if they struggle. If either dog advances toward you, you’ll need to work on giving cues from a distance with your jumper, and pedestal train your bottom dog. Most dogs will want to move forward as they stand, and your jumper will likely try to jump in front of you. Watch in the video as Doug tries to figure out how to jump over Roscoe’s back while I stand a few feet away, he looks back and forth between my cue and Roscoe’s back before finally attempting the jump. You’ll notice me giving them plenty of treats the first time they figure out how to do this trick at a distance, it is tricky stuff!